The Graves of Untold !!!

Unknown for many, the largest war cemetery in entire North East situated at Jairampur, Changlang district in Arunachal Pradesh with more than 1000 graves is gradually drawing people’s attention.

 Journey to Jairampur

ENTRANCE !!!

One early morning, my senior and I set out for Jairampur World war II cemetery from Tezu via Mahadevpur en-route Kharsang. Driving along the smooth highway with soothing music inside the car and light drizzle outside kept us busy throughout the journey. Within an hour, we  reached small but impressive town Jairampur .

Place and Tribe

Popular for Namadapha National Park, Changlang is home to Tangsa, Tutsa,  Singpho and Yobin tribes with their unique and distinctive art,  culture, tradition and festivals. Jairampur, Miao, Manmao, Vijoynagar and Nampong are other important towns.

Along the Stillwell Road

The World War II Cemetery is around 7 kilometres from Jairampur. Once known as Ledo road, it was re-named as Stilwell Road in honour of General Joseph W Stilwell, an American who was behind road’s construction. I couldn't hide my excitement  of travelling along the erstwhile Stilwell Road..

Constructed during   the second  world  war by Allied Forces  for  easy transit from India to Kunming in China via Myanmar and to prevent the advancement of imperial  Japanese, the road  had  slowly  faded   away from people’s  memories with course of time.

ALONG THE  ERSTWHILE STILWELL ROAD

Presently, this road comes under Trans-Arunachal Highway as National Highway- 315 with two lane road till India’s last village.

Discovery

Mysteriously remaining unknown for years, Jairampur WW II Cemetery was discovered in 1997 by Assam Rifle Jawans during clearing the jungle. Many graves were already destroyed due to wild elephants trampling and natural calamities. Even the local people didn’t know about its presence. Though they had found many artifacts and items used during the WW II but ignorant of cemetery’s historical importance, they didn’t preserve any. 
Arranged in many lines and rows, there is a huge grave in the centre believed to be a mass burial.

GRAVES !!!!

Botanical Garden

Spreading over an area of 3 acres near Namchik River, the cemetery comes under Botanical garden but the state's forest department looks after it including a non-functional museum inside the premises.

With free entry, the number of visitors has increased after its renovation. Though no register is kept to record the exact number of visitors; winter season witnesses more visitors. Around four thousand tourists turn up annually.

 Foundation stone

State’s former Governor Retired General JJ Sigh had laid the foundation stone 2^nd January 2009. Minister of Defence (MoS)  MM Pallam Raju opened it formally for public on 20^th January 2010.

Memorial

Memorial erected in memory of those died during the construction of Stilwell Road reads:

MEMORIAL !!!

Graves and Graveyard

Just ahead of memorial, there are graves everywhere under the tree shades. More than 1000 graves including that of the Chinese, Kachins,  Indan, british and Americans soldiers exist.

Soldiers, workers and labourers during the Stilwell road construction died    due to diseases like malaria, dysentery, natural calamities and snake bite were buried here. Some Abor(Adi), Mishmi, Jaintia soldiers who fought for the  Allied Forces were also buried here but barely any  evidence is available supporting their background.

Cemetery of a Chinese and Epitaphs

Chinese soldier Hsiao Chu Ching’s burial is the largest and is only the cemetery in India where a Chinese army’s soldier is buried. Inscribed in Chinese with English translation, his tombstone reads:
Major Hsiao Chu Ching, Company Commander 2^nd Company, 2^nd Battalion of 10^th Regiment, Independent Engineers of Chinese Army stationed in India. He was born in July 1913 at Wei Country of Hapeh province and died in December 1943.

HSIAO CHI CHUNG'S TOMBSTONE !!!

 

 

 

 

An epitaph nearby Chu Ching’s burial  reads: These graves  bear the  silent  testimony to those soldiers, unlisted workers and labourers who ventured into   virgin jungle amid blistering heat and laid  their lives in the line of   duty during  second  world war whilst part of  the all forces against the imperial  Japanese Army. Their Names Liveth Forever More.

THEIR NAMES LIVETH FOREVER MORE  !!! 

However, it is very disappointing to witness many graves in dilapidated condition without maintenance. Epitaphs need an immediate re-writing as alphabets are almost illegible.

Commonwealth War Graves Commission

 In spite being the largest war cemetery in North East, it exists in obscurity. Unlike war cemeteries of Kohima in Nagaland and Imphal in Maniur, Jairampur World war II cemetery doesn’t come under Commonwealth War Graves Commission. So the Commission doesn’t provide any aid for maintenance.  

The last Indian village 

WAY FROM NAMPONG !!!

Visiting India’s last village-Nampong will be an icing on the cake which is only 20 Km away from Jairampur. The highway with pleasing terraced tea gardens and lush green hill on road’s both sides is breathtaking. Pangsau pass is just 11 km from Nampong but permission is required to move beyond Nampong due to security reason. 

How to reach?

Well connected from Assam, Jairampur is 136 kilometres from Mohanbari airport in Dibrugarh. From Tinsukia, it is only 96 kilometres.

Check Point and ILP

Entering Arunachal, all non-Arunachalees need Inner Line Permit (ILP) at Jairmapur check post. Tourists can procure an ILP at check post instantly. Tourists can stay at inspection bungalow and circuit house.

Back Home with Memory

Ideal for solitude lovers, here one listens nothing but nature’s silence; crickets’ sound and birds chirping. It was already evening now! We began our back journey. But my mind was engrossed thinking about those graves. Images of graves were recurring in my mind who sacrificed their lives accomplishing Stilwell Road.

Some graves in the world are known by names; some graves are known by numbers; there are graves that are known by alphabets. Unfortunately, these graves are sans any names; numbers or alphabets! These graves have existed unidentified for years. Don’t know for how long these graves will remain nameless, unidentified! As we were heading towards Tezu, few lines of a poem came to my mind: 

"Thus Let me live, Unseen, Unknown;
 Thus unlamented, let me die;
 Steal from the   world,  and not a stone
Tell where I lie.'"

Images: Few images are taken from Google.