The Graves of Untold !!!

Unknown for many, the largest war cemetery in entire North East situated at Jairampur, Changlang district in Arunachal Pradesh with more than 1000 graves is gradually drawing people’s attention.

 Journey to Jairampur

ENTRANCE !!!

One early morning, my senior and I set out for Jairampur World war II cemetery from Tezu via Mahadevpur en-route Kharsang. Driving along the smooth highway with soothing music inside the car and light drizzle outside kept us busy throughout the journey. Within an hour, we  reached small but impressive town Jairampur .

Place and Tribe

Popular for Namadapha National Park, Changlang is home to Tangsa, Tutsa,  Singpho and Yobin tribes with their unique and distinctive art,  culture, tradition and festivals. Jairampur, Miao, Manmao, Vijoynagar and Nampong are other important towns.

Along the Stillwell Road

The World War II Cemetery is around 7 kilometres from Jairampur. Once known as Ledo road, it was re-named as Stilwell Road in honour of General Joseph W Stilwell, an American who was behind road’s construction. I couldn't hide my excitement  of travelling along the erstwhile Stilwell Road..

Constructed during   the second  world  war by Allied Forces  for  easy transit from India to Kunming in China via Myanmar and to prevent the advancement of imperial  Japanese, the road  had  slowly  faded   away from people’s  memories with course of time.

ALONG THE  ERSTWHILE STILWELL ROAD

Presently, this road comes under Trans-Arunachal Highway as National Highway- 315 with two lane road till India’s last village.

Discovery

Mysteriously remaining unknown for years, Jairampur WW II Cemetery was discovered in 1997 by Assam Rifle Jawans during clearing the jungle. Many graves were already destroyed due to wild elephants trampling and natural calamities. Even the local people didn’t know about its presence. Though they had found many artifacts and items used during the WW II but ignorant of cemetery’s historical importance, they didn’t preserve any. 
Arranged in many lines and rows, there is a huge grave in the centre believed to be a mass burial.

GRAVES !!!!

Botanical Garden

Spreading over an area of 3 acres near Namchik River, the cemetery comes under Botanical garden but the state's forest department looks after it including a non-functional museum inside the premises.

With free entry, the number of visitors has increased after its renovation. Though no register is kept to record the exact number of visitors; winter season witnesses more visitors. Around four thousand tourists turn up annually.

 Foundation stone

State’s former Governor Retired General JJ Sigh had laid the foundation stone 2^nd January 2009. Minister of Defence (MoS)  MM Pallam Raju opened it formally for public on 20^th January 2010.

Memorial

Memorial erected in memory of those died during the construction of Stilwell Road reads:

MEMORIAL !!!

Graves and Graveyard

Just ahead of memorial, there are graves everywhere under the tree shades. More than 1000 graves including that of the Chinese, Kachins,  Indan, british and Americans soldiers exist.

Soldiers, workers and labourers during the Stilwell road construction died    due to diseases like malaria, dysentery, natural calamities and snake bite were buried here. Some Abor(Adi), Mishmi, Jaintia soldiers who fought for the  Allied Forces were also buried here but barely any  evidence is available supporting their background.

Cemetery of a Chinese and Epitaphs

Chinese soldier Hsiao Chu Ching’s burial is the largest and is only the cemetery in India where a Chinese army’s soldier is buried. Inscribed in Chinese with English translation, his tombstone reads:
Major Hsiao Chu Ching, Company Commander 2^nd Company, 2^nd Battalion of 10^th Regiment, Independent Engineers of Chinese Army stationed in India. He was born in July 1913 at Wei Country of Hapeh province and died in December 1943.

HSIAO CHI CHUNG'S TOMBSTONE !!!

 

 

 

 

An epitaph nearby Chu Ching’s burial  reads: These graves  bear the  silent  testimony to those soldiers, unlisted workers and labourers who ventured into   virgin jungle amid blistering heat and laid  their lives in the line of   duty during  second  world war whilst part of  the all forces against the imperial  Japanese Army. Their Names Liveth Forever More.

THEIR NAMES LIVETH FOREVER MORE  !!! 

However, it is very disappointing to witness many graves in dilapidated condition without maintenance. Epitaphs need an immediate re-writing as alphabets are almost illegible.

Commonwealth War Graves Commission

 In spite being the largest war cemetery in North East, it exists in obscurity. Unlike war cemeteries of Kohima in Nagaland and Imphal in Maniur, Jairampur World war II cemetery doesn’t come under Commonwealth War Graves Commission. So the Commission doesn’t provide any aid for maintenance.  

The last Indian village 

WAY FROM NAMPONG !!!

Visiting India’s last village-Nampong will be an icing on the cake which is only 20 Km away from Jairampur. The highway with pleasing terraced tea gardens and lush green hill on road’s both sides is breathtaking. Pangsau pass is just 11 km from Nampong but permission is required to move beyond Nampong due to security reason. 

How to reach?

Well connected from Assam, Jairampur is 136 kilometres from Mohanbari airport in Dibrugarh. From Tinsukia, it is only 96 kilometres.

Check Point and ILP

Entering Arunachal, all non-Arunachalees need Inner Line Permit (ILP) at Jairmapur check post. Tourists can procure an ILP at check post instantly. Tourists can stay at inspection bungalow and circuit house.

Back Home with Memory

Ideal for solitude lovers, here one listens nothing but nature’s silence; crickets’ sound and birds chirping. It was already evening now! We began our back journey. But my mind was engrossed thinking about those graves. Images of graves were recurring in my mind who sacrificed their lives accomplishing Stilwell Road.

Some graves in the world are known by names; some graves are known by numbers; there are graves that are known by alphabets. Unfortunately, these graves are sans any names; numbers or alphabets! These graves have existed unidentified for years. Don’t know for how long these graves will remain nameless, unidentified! As we were heading towards Tezu, few lines of a poem came to my mind: 

"Thus Let me live, Unseen, Unknown;
 Thus unlamented, let me die;
 Steal from the   world,  and not a stone
Tell where I lie.'"

Images: Few images are taken from Google.

Dhamma Hill at Lathao

Dhamma Hill also known as Lal Pahad is in Lathao circle of Namsai district Arunachal Pradesh. The place is popular for largest Buddhist statue in India. One has to travel around 7km inside Lathao town to reach the place.

 We are nothing but nano micro dots in Universe !!!!

Though the road is not yet carpeted but it is smooth ride or drive to reach the place. One can also enjoy tea garden on the way to Dhamma Hill...

So take out time as we did, and visit Dhamma Hill to witness the largest Buddhist statue in India and add something good to your memory Book !!!

Our Moment !!!!

For  watching  video, click Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCYFr-KAJ6A

The Broken Promise!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Saw few small children flying colourful kites from their roof top from my office parking place.  They looked  completely  engrossed and engaged.

However, the  first   glimpse  that  arrested my  attention was  that  their  space  was  limited  and squeezed or contracted to confined roof top from the free space that we used to get when children.

All free space has been replaced by concrete jungle. Even the country areas are being transformed to cemented buildings and houses! 

What made me happy was that they were looking so happy, satisfied and contended within the boundary of confined space.

By the way, the matter and the concern is not if their happiness is confined or open. 

Their activity took   me to the past and  that  reminded me of a promise that I made to one of my friends. 

I had promised him that I would make a kite for him but that  promise remained  and I know I will never be making   any kite for my him.

He is no more alive !! 

Highway on My Mobile !

This Video was recorded while we were on the  way to Mawlynnnong, the cleanest village in Asia!

Mawlynnong is in  Meghalaya with it's capital Shillong  which is known as Scotland of the East. 

Enjoy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fH4wmU6xOM&t=4s

NEFA 1953-The Hidden War !!

We always look towards ‘Mera Dharam Meri Maa’ when it comes to Arunachali films. However, in recent times lots of films have been produced that are equally par excellence. One among them is -NEFA 1953-The Hidden War.

Still From 1953-The Hidden War !

Inspired by real event of some village in Arunachal Pradesh, the films depicts about the fight for their land, sacrifice for love. One of the dialogues says, “Our ancestors’ soul is inhabited in this mountain. So, that is why we have to take care of it.”

Still From 1953-The Hidden War !

The film begins with a brief depiction of Arunachal Pradesh’s  Adi warriors Matmur Jamoh and his companion who had killed British political agent, Noel Williamson and medical official Dr Gregorson respectively in 1911. 

Fast forward to 1953, post-independence! Indian government wants to bring development in country’s every nook and corner implementing various schemes. Indian forces (Assam Rifles) are assigned to carry out the tasks which seem to be very difficult. One character is seen saying, “Kaam  Mushkil Hai  Per Jaana  to Padega(Task  is difficult but have to go).”

Still From 1953-The Hidden War !

Army officials hired local mediators from other tribes; trekked many hills and reached to an interior tribal land. 

Indigenous tribal people, unaware of mainland people’s way of life and their intention, are unwilling to welcome the outsiders but mediators convinced them. These tribal people find difficulty in checking their rival community   at the one hand and advances of the outsiders.

The tension and conflict between them crop up when the outsiders start taking advantage of innocent people invading their privacy and social affairs.

Left with no option, they retaliate. The repression is more hostile. Indigenous people sacrificed their lives with bravery protecting ancestral land.

Still From 1953-The Hidden War !

Besides the main theme, the film also deals with issues including bride price system, nature’s worshiping, community’s norms and rules, clash within communities and revenge killing   system that used to prevail earlier.

Still From 1953-The Hidden War !

Tarh Gungte’s acting as Maruk is stunning. His aggressive looks, his disliking for outsiders, his grudges against rival community is all perfect. In one of the scenes where he hides himself under water and shoots at his enemy with an arrow is incredible.

Anna Taying’s acting is remarkable. The child birth scene looks so authentic. Audiences can feel her pang. Scene where she is shown cutting the umbilical cords with her teeth after giving birth is portrayed realistically that looks so real and convincing!

Patey Tajuk (Dr Techi Upan Tara) is the main villain and has acted flawlessly. The way he prays to nature, the way he kills his enemies, all look perfectly villainous.

Rukje (Maruk’s son) has brief but vital role. He gradually learns the way of the world from his father; by witnessing and observing the happenings around him. When Rukje sails back to his village is outstanding (emotional too!).

Still From 1953-The Hidden War !

Other actors Rana Konia, Tar Yokum Maya, Nabam Sunil have perfectly done justice to their respective roles.  

Though the film will be compared the film with Apocalypto and Warriors of the Rainbow but NEFA 1953-The Hidden War is a pure Arunachali film.

The film is mostly in Nyishi dialect with few Tagin, Adi and Galo dialects besides Hindi language with English Sub-titles. Portrayal of violence and bloodshed may disturb few audiences yet the film has a smooth flow like a beautiful short story being told without any digression.

State’s beautiful locations have been captured brilliantly. Amazing waterfalls, astonishing rivers, eye pleasing green hills are stunning. These locations must be used for promotion of state’s tourism.

Special effects (for Arunachali film) are brilliant. Music by Zerchi Musobi and Karga Ragiand editing by Taba Shekhar and Dhurba Kakoti are fantastic.

The film has exceptionally raised the bar of the quality of Arunachali film.  Everything about the film is brilliant and can be termed as coming of an Arunachali film.

Still From 1953-The Hidden War !

A must watch film; not only for its story, theme, background score but brilliant acting, technical excellence along with amazing outdoor locations, the film will not bore you any bit.

Though film is not without flaws but brilliant acting; beautiful background score make audience to ignore those flaws. The use of   artificial rain is remarkable. It must have been used for the first time in any Arunachali film (though I am not sure!)

Produced under the banner of TN Dreams Pictures; Tar Aap, Tar Yokom Maya, Taw Ania and  Tapen Natam are the producers. Written and directed by Tapen Natam, NEFA 1953-The Hidden War is so far state’s one of the best films.

Audiences will thoroughly enjoy this 132 minutes long film for its entertaining value; for telling the about fighting of those unsung heroes who sacrificed their lives to protect their ancestral land.

Click here for watchng trailer :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MufFgHlXt7k

* NEFA- North East Frontier Agency

*Image Courtesy: YouTube